Cats and Pot

My first foray into cannabis was CannaPet capsules, for a cat with severe hip problems. It was literally a low level THC hemp dried, ground, in a capsule.  Worked great...

I've used CBD oil for myself and cats.  It seems to help some for muscle, tendon, and joint issues.  With cats, I've used several brands.

Last brand I bought was Bailey's.  Now Bailey's is CBD oil but it's also a full spectrum oil which means it has a bit of THC and CBN in it.  Since Spencer did better with the CannaPet, this was worth a try.

Enter James and Tolstoy... As James has aged (now 18yrs) he has humped his brother more and more, to the point Tolstoy has major anxiety and sprays.  James also is stage 3 CRF.

So...in my brilliance... I decided to try this CBD on both James and Tolstoy, so 3 days ago they got some.

Today I find James lethargic, uninterested in food, barely able to walk...totally out of it.  Checked his vitals - fine, but a bit cool.  Checked for stings - nothing.  Checked for obvious intestinal issues - fine. 

Broke down and called my vet...

She helped put the pieces together...

In 3 days, the THC and/or CBN in the CBD oil built up enough in his system, thanks to decreased kidney function, that James is officially stoned out of his little brain!  He's sleeping it off - if he's not better around noon, he gets subq fluids.

A couple of lessons:

- understand the cannabis product and its ingredients 

- be cautious of THC with CRF cats

- have subq fluids on hand

And here is Mr. Stoned Cat...

Muted on Facebook

Well, I got muted on Facebook for saying something about crazy cat ladies.  No swearing, not nasty, just a simple one liner that was funny.  But the censor-bots on Facebook muted me for 24 hrs, I appealed, and lost...

So, like many things - I pick up the pieces and improve things.  I hate the search algorithm on Facebook.  I've written a lot of posts that I can hardly find. I have decided to copy those posts to here... It'll be a slow process but worth it in the end...

Cats: Cleaning Persian Cats' Eyes

 How to Clean the Eyes

So your cat has eye goop and you want to get rid of it?  How?  

To clean the eyes:

Step 1:  Use your fingernail to carefully flick off any dried chunks of crud.  Flick away from the eye so on the lower lid, go down, upper lid go up, and in the crease by the nose, towards the nose.  You can also use a flea comb to do this. Now, if you have a show persian, don't do this because it will pull some hairs out... I know sadly...

Step 2:  Use a make-up pad or soft cloth, moistened with "something", and gently wipe the eyes, inner to outer.  You may have to repeat this several times to loosen dried crud.  

Now, I use those little round cotton make-up pads because they don't shed lint like a cottonball.  (No sense in cleaning the eyes and putting more stuff into the eyes.)  One (or half of one -- yes I cut them in half) per eye so you don't spread germs from one eye to the other.  A soft cloth does work except it needs to be thoroughly rinsed between usages.

The moistening stuff...  Well there are lots of options:

-- water -- if works just fine for general, low crud cleaning

-- salt water -- 1 tsp of salt in 1 cup of water, similar to natural tears, and is claimed to kill the yeast

-- saline solution -- preservative free, very convenient, in the contact lens section or order some online

-- Eye Envy solution -- the original version which must be refrigerated works better than the new, non-refridgerated version, it probably has an enzyme in it to remove stains and something to kill the yeast

-- boric acid solutioin --  you can buy it premade or make it yourself, my version is 1 cup boiling water, 1tsp boric acid, and 10 drops goldenseal, but the recipe does vary (Note:  some cats have an issue with boric acid)

-- colloidal silver -- some people use this, I have not tried it for eye stains

and my favorite...

-- Bausch & Lomb ReNu contact solution -- basically a saline solution with a bit of boric acid, 1 bottle lasts many months even with show cats

Step 3:  Dry the eyes and, if you screwed up and got stains, pack them.  Packing eyes means to take powder and gently push it into the hairs using either a q-tip or a make-up brush where there is potential for staining.  The idea is two fold -- one is the powder will absorb the tears and two is the powder often has something in it to kill yeast.  I do this at night only.

So, things you can use:

-- cornstarch -- it works well

-- Eye Envy powder -- works better than cornstarch, but costs more

and my favorite...

-- Breeder-Care -- I really like it, but it ships from Indonesia so the shipping is high (and folks, it is SAFE... many show people use it, it's by a show person)

One thing I would not recommend is using bleach or a bleaching agent.  If you google it, there are recipes for a bleach paste that some show people use.  Don't!  It can hurt the eye is you get it in one.  Also, while it does work  on removing the stain, it also does something to the hair which will cause more staining -- so it's a vicious circle.

Having said all this and having a plethora of eye staining products, prevention is best.  When I got Charlie, my newest show cat, I learned a huge lesson -- if you clean the eyes 3 times a day, you rarely need anything other than ReNu solution and make-up pads.  Tom Lukken, her breeder, told me that he didn't use powder at all or any of the other trips show people use, and her eyes were pristine when I picked her up.  And he was right -- constant, gentle cleaning, prevents much of the problems.  So, her eyes are wiped 3 times a day and there is no staining!  (And thanks to him and Charlie, Peaches' eyes are cleaner too!)  I use only the ReNu and make-up pads...  The photo is of her at a recent show WITHOUT any powder at all.  (Getting a white cat, or one with all white around the eyes, has sure made me more disciplined on the grooming!)

Are there other things that can be done to prevent eye staining and excess tearing?  Yes, and I plan to discuss each of these individually:

-- trimming the eyes  (tomorrow)

-- lysine

Cats: K.I.S.S.

 K.I.S.S. -- Keep It Simple Stupid

This principle suggests trying the simple solutions first and then moving to more complex solutions.  For example, if a persian in Spring throws up.  Most likely, it's a hairball, so try a hairball remedy.

Until you try that and it fails, there is no reason to suggest major things like pancreatitis, IBS, strictures, or cancer.

Cats: Basic Cat Medical Supplies

 Here is a list of the basic medical supplies I keep on hand.  While this is not for everyone (see below), this is the bare minimum any breeder or "high volume" rescue person should have on hand IMHO.

For infections:

Amoxicillin 

Clavamox 

Baytril

Famciclovir 

Colloidal silver 

Goldenseal 

For eyes:

NeoPolyBac 

NeoPolyDex

Ofloxin

Gentimicin

Optixcare 

GenTeal 

For digestive issues:

Slippery elm bark 

Cerenia

Enema kit (cat with megacolon)

In general:

Thermometer 

Lactate ringers

Subq fluid sets

Syringes 

Needles

Cones 

I also have a close working relationship with my vet.  She will prescribe drugs because I have said I need them - she trusts my judgement as to what it is and if I can deal with it.

I've posted a list like this before and have gotten negative comments, because of some of the items.  But here's the truth - if you are going to be either in rescue or a breeder, then you have to know how to do basic medical things and have the supplies.  If you are nervous about treating your cats, then go to a vet.

Trimming the Eyes

One thing that causes excess tearing is hair in their eyes.  How do I know this?  Well, when I got my first show persian, I was told to and shown how to trim the eyes thanks to Lynda Knight Peace.  For show cats this is done to "open" the eyes - so no fur covers their eyes.

So, I went home and practiced on a couple of rescues.  What I noticed is that the cats with trimmed eyes had less tearing in many cases.

In Wendy's case, it made a huge difference. If you look at the before photo you can see the eye lashes are long  (over 1/4 inch) and over her eye.

So, after cleaning her eyes, I take my handy curved scissors and carefully trim the hair, starting from the outside working in. After much practice, I can get it evenly cut at about 1/32 of an inch.  But if it's a bit longer, it still will help.  You must hold their head steady and do the trimming carefully - you don't want to cut the eyelid or poke the eye.

But you can see in the comparison photo how open the right eye is compared to the left.

And in the top view, you can see how short the hair is.  Ideally on a show cat, I would then come back with thinning shears or a grooming stone and carefully blend the cut area into the head hair.

The result is Wendy keeps her eyes open more, there's less tearing, and I got to practice!

Homemade Raw Cat Food

 

For those interested in raw food, this is the recipe I've used for almost 20 yrs without any issues.  Vets, including anti-raw vets, have analyzed it and have never found a flaw.

http://www.blakkatz.com/recipes.pdf

Cats: HCM

 THE major heart problem for cats is HCM, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy.  For some purebreds, namely Maine coons and American shorthairs, there is a clear genetic component.  With Maine coons, they ate looking for a second gene even.  But it is a disease that can strike any cat from my posh persians to my moggies.  And 50% of the time there are no symptoms. 

For a thorough article on it, please read:

http://www.manhattancats.com/Articles/Hypertrophic_Cardiomyopathy.html

Reading Vet Books

I guess I'm weird -- not that this is a news flash -- because I read vet books -- that is the part that startles me.  Sure, vet books are full of a lot of unfamiliar terminology, much of it very specialized, Hey, there are veterinary medicine dictionaries and many online sources...

It just seems to me if you want to know something, and really understand what is going on, go to the experts... and in the case of cats and their health, that would be vet books.

Cats: Euthanasia

Here is a useful chart for when it's time to think about euthanasia.

Cats: Antihistamines

 A handy table of antihistamines for cats.  Some are OTC and others are by prescription.

Cats: Syringe Feeding

 

Syringe Feeding a Cat

Having just gone through several weeks of syringe feeding Gabby, I thought I would share some thoughts and advice on syringe feeding a cat.  This usually arises when a cat stops eating usually because of illness and you have to get food into the cat.  Many people, including vet techs, hate doing it, but I find it a time to bond with the cat.  And actually, many of the cats, like Isabel, who were syringe fed for weeks to months, often come and want to be hand-fed when stressed.  (I actually had to fight her off when I was syringe-feeding Gabby as Isabel wanted the syringe and my lap so badly!)

So here are some suggestions.

1. Time. Slow is better.  I will take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes to get the food into the cat. I only put a small amount in (maybe 1-2 ml) and I let the cat swallow and relax before the next mouthful.  Because this takes time and because often the cat can't handle larger amounts, I break up the day's food into 3 or 4 meals.

2. Location. I syringe feed the cat in my lap or between my legs while sitting on the floor. I have the cat surrounded with my legs and arms, with my torso draped over the cat. I believe this makes the cat feel safer. Rarely do I have to 'towel' a cat to force feed it -- even with new arrivals.

3. Tools. I use a feeding syringe from FourPaws. It holds a nice amount and the tips can be cut off so that the food comes out quickly. I have tried regular syringes and I didn't like it. If the syringe is re-used, the plunger sticks due to the rubber o-ring. The tip is usually too small unless one uses the 50 ml size and then it's too big to easily handle.  I usually preload 2 syringes, and then have the bowl with a spoon to refill them if needed.

Also have have moist paper towels, to clean up drips and splatters.  Many cats do appreciate you cleaning off around their mouths.

4. Food. I know Science Diet A/D is considered a great force feeding food, but (a) I don't keep it on hand and (b) some of my cats hate it, so I just use my normal raw mixture thinned with water or other liquid. The food needs to be of the right consistency -- not runny, not thick, but something like cold gravy.

Now in the vet world, there is this 'argument' that you should not syringe feed the same food that you normally feed because the cat will develop food aversions.  Bullshit!  I have seen vet techs force-feed a cat with a syringe and watching them squirt 10 ml of canned food into the cat who started to choke on it... I have no doubts as to why that cat would be averse to that food, and it has nothing really to do with the food but how it was delivered.  I have syringe fed many rescue cats and many of my own because of illness, and not one has become averse to my raw.

As for amounts, that is tricky.  To keep a cat from going into hepatic lipidosis, they need a minimum of 3 tablespoons of food... not a lot to prevent it.  With the raw, I shoot for a minimum of 60 -100 ml of food depending on the cat size.  Often for the first 1-2 days, I only give 45 ml so not to overload the digestive tract if the cat has not been eating.  (I know a vet once advised me to give 1.5 3.5 oz cans of A/D to a 3 lb cat...I looked at the vet and laughed -- an 8 lb adult would not be fed that much, let alone a very sick 3 lb cat.)

I usually add a bunch of things to the raw I syringe feed.  The big things are probiotics (specifically PB8) and digestive enzymes -- both will help the digestive tract function better.  Then depending on why the cat is being syringe fed, I may add milk thistle (liver issues), echinacea (infections), ginseng (general tonic), gingko (kidneys), etc...

5. Position of head. I try to keep the head level and squirt small amounts of the food ( like 1 ml) in the middle of the upper palate. This works better than what owners are told to do -- squirt it between cheek and teeth. I know vets and vet techs are afraid owners will choke the cat with the food, but if it's the proper consistency (not a liquid) and if it's small amounts, I've never had any problem.

One last thing, the alternative to syringe-feeding is having a tube placed and then feed via the tube.  I've done that, and found it much harder to deal with -- tube kept getting clogged, easy to overfeed, annoying to cat, etc.  Also, from an alternative medicine point of view, it is much better that food goes in the mouth so that the digestive system is properly triggered, than to suddenly bombard the cat's digestive tract with food in the middle of the digestive process.

Cats: Vaccinations and Titers

A well written article on titers and vaccines by some of the top experts in the field.

AVMA: titer or revaccinate

Titer testing, through the Kansas State University, costs around $50. In most states, a titer test is NOT accepted in lieu of rabies vaccination. 

Cats: Birthing Emergencies

Summarized from "Emergency Interception During Parturition in the Dog and Cat," Frances O. Smith, Vet Clin Small Anim 42(2012): 489-499

There are 3 stages of birthing:
Stage 1: uterine contractions and cervical dilation -- usually 6-12 hrs, but maybe up to 36 hrs.  Queen is restless, may pant, refuses food, nests
Stage 2: fetal expulsion -- usually 4 to 16 hrs, with occasionally upto 42 hrs.
Stage 3: placental expulsion -- usually each placenta is passed within 15 minutes of the fetus

Dystocia (difficult birth) occurs 3.3% to 5.8% in feline births.  Clinical signs include:
-- pregnant queen >71 days after breeding
-- straining for 1 hr continuously before delivering
-- green or black vaginal discharge before delivery
-- resting over 3 hrs between births
-- delivery of stillborn
-- protrusion of fetal membranes for over 15 minutes without delivery of fetus
-- vaginal hemorrhage
-- weak or distressed queen

Causes of dystocia can be divided between problems with the queen and problems with the fetuses.  67.1% are of maternal origin and 29.7% are of fetal origin.  [and no the numbers don't add up, but I didn't write the article!]

Fetal causes:
-- malpresentation (the most common fetal problem) -- 70% of kittens are born head first, and while butt-first is not abnormal in cats, it does increase the risk of death.
-- fetal abnormalities
-- fetal death
-- fetal oversize
-- anasarcous fetuses (fluid filled fetuses)

Maternal causes:
-- uterine inertia (the most common maternal problem) -- Primary inertia, the queen has little to no contractions and does not reach Stage 2.  Partial primary, the queen reaches Stage 2 but the contractions are too weak to expel a fetus.  Secondary inertia arises from anatomic problems.  The uterus may become exhausted in the case of obstructed birth canal.
-- pelvic fracture
-- uterine torsion -- Abdomen is very painful with a racing heart beat.
-- vaginal abnormalities such as bands
-- malnutrition
-- parasites

Medical management
If the queen has not been in labor too long, the cervix is dilated, fetal size is appropriate, and the fetal heart rate is normal, then the use of drugs may help.  Drugs should NOT be used in cases of obstruction or when more than 1 fetus remains in utero due to uterine fatigue. 
-- oxytocin increases the frequency and quality of contractions.  Doses range from 2 to 4 U IM, with a recommended dose of 0.5 to 2 U.  The author spcifies an initial dose of 0.1 U/kg, with a repeat dose after 30 minutes, and no further use after that.  (Oxytocin will cause placental separation and lead to fetal distress.)
-- calcium increases the contractions but "in the queen, calcium use is controversial, due to the very strong uterine contractions seen when it is administered".  [I'm planning on looking into this frther.]

Mechanical management
In the case of malpositioning, it is possible to use sterile lubricant and fingers to rotate and extract the fetus.  Otherwise an episiotomy is possible, but with the complication of scarring and increased risks for future pregnancies.

Surgical management
60-80% of all dystocias result in surgery.  Fetal heartrates below 150 beats/min require immediate surgery, and 150-170 should be monitored closely as surgery is prepared for.  The author does not recommend an ovariohysterectomy at the time of a ceasarean, unless the uterus is damaged, due to risk of hemorrhage and loss of fluids. [skipped all the discussion of anesthetics and surgery as this is not a DIY project, hopefully]

The accompanying flowchart shows neonatal resuscitation.  While it is for neonates after a ceasarean, much of it does apply to normally born kittens too.

Cats: Feline Gestation

Summarized from "Current Advances in Gestation and Parturition in Cats and Dogs", Catherine G. Lamm, Chelsea L. Makloski, Vet. Clinics Sm Animal 42(2012) 445-456

In cats, the normal gestation range is given as 52-74 days, depending on the breed.  As cats are induced ovulators, the luteinizing hormone only surges 24-40 hrs after copulation.  If the copulation is not observed, it is difficult to determine when ovulation occurs.

After 5 days (post breeding) the fertilized ovum enters the uterus with the outer layer (zona pelucida) being shed 10-12 days after breeding.  Implantation occurs at 12-13 days.  Heart beats can be detected at 16 to 25 days.

Pregnancy diagnosis can be made by palpation for the gestational sacs 21-25 days post breeding.  After 35 days, however, the sacs flatten and palpation becomes more difficult.

Ultrasound is the most sensitive and reliable method of pregnancy detection.  With skilled technicians, fetal structures can be detected 11-17 days post breeding.  It is less reliable to determine the number of fetuses.  Heart rates can be monitored from day 25 onwards, and should be greater than 193 beats/min.  Fetal movement can be observed at 28 days.  After 40 days, the gestational age can be estimated using the foloowing two formulas:

Age = (25 x head diameter cms) + 3
Age = (11 x body diameter cms) +21

Mineralization occurs at 38-40 days.  Xrays can then be used to determine the number of fetuses.  Once mineralization begins, age of the fetuses can be estimated as seen in the table.

Use of hormones to determine pregnancy is dependent on the hormone.  Progesterone is not reliable.  Relaxin is specific to pregnancy as early as about 25 days.  Prolactin is not reliable as it will spike in pseudopregnant animals.

Unlike in dogs, queens need a slow increase in calories beginning at 14 days.

Queens may have normocytic, normochromic anemia as well as mild neutrophilia.  Other changes in bloodwork include decrease in proteins, increase in lactate dehydrogenase, increase in cholesterol, and decrease in creatinine. 

For high risk pregnancies, monitoring of progesterone levels should be used.  If a decrease in progesterone level is seen, females can enter pre-term labor, which may be stopped with exogenous progesterone or terbutaline.

Termination of pregnancies can be done either by spaying or, if fertility needs to be maintained, by using a variety of compounds such as estradiol cypionate.

Cats: Hyperlipidemia

General background on hyperlipidemia -- note there are two different kinds, high glycerides and high cholesterols.  It can be caused by increased production (doubtful), increased mobilization (again doubtful in a kitten), and decreased clearance (which makes the most sense here).  To separate physiological from pathological, test after 12hr fast.  HypOthyrdoism keeps being mentioned as a potential cause.

Treatments for hyperglyceridemia:  a low fat diet, <25% fat (raw chicken), omega 3, chitosan...

Treatments for hypercholesterolemia:  soluble fiber,

http://veterinarymedicine.dvm360.com/hyperlipidemia-dogs-and-cats

Homemade Kitten Formula

Orphan kittens ideally should be placed with a nursing queen to get cat milk.  This is not often possible, so caregivers must find a substitute. 

The simplest is fresh, raw goat milk, or even a commercial version.

If this is not available, then either commercial kitten milk (such as KMR) or a homemade version needs to be used.

Under no circumstances should only cow's milk be fed - it lacks important nutrients for kitten growth and there are reports of severe diarrhea when fed exclusively.

The Recipe:

Ingredients for 1-¼ cups kitten formula:

1 cup of goat milk (if unavailable, whole milk can be used but is not preferred)
1 large egg
2 teaspoons of powdered protein
1 teaspoon of nutritional yeast
110 mg of powdered calcium
1-day dose of vitamins formulated for adult cats

You'll also need a mixing bowl, a hand mixer, a saucepan, and a small nursing bottle.

Beat the egg, and thoroughly stir in the remaining ingredients. Warm the formula in a small nursing bottle by placing it into a cup or bowl of hot water. Test the formula on the underside of your wrist to check the temperature. If the formula is too hot, wait until the formula cools down. If the formula is too cold, continue soaking the bottle in hot water. Always be sure to test the formula again before giving it to the kitten.

Never re-use formula that you have warmed. Discard it and use fresh formula for each feed.

Discussion:

There is concern among some kitten fosterers about the use of any cow's milk with kittens.  There concern centers on the lactose content of the cow's milk.  Here are the lactose levels in various milks:

cat milk  4% (constant from birth to weaning)
cow milk  4.5-4.9%  (various authors report different figures)

goat milk  4.1% (or 10% less than cow milk, so 4.1-4.4%)

Feline nutritional experts also agree -- young kittens can digest lactose (obvious from it being in mother's milk), but as they mature to adults, some cats lose this ability and become lactose intolerant.

Lastly, almost all commercial kitten formulas, except where clearly labelled as derived from goat milk, are all make using cow milk in various forms -- casein, powdered milk, whey, etc.

Thoughts on Syringe-Feeding a Cat

Since I seem to have better than average experience with this, a vet invited me to share some tips and tricks with her and others. I have been thinking about and actually spent part of day observing at a local vet clinic to really see what the differences were. I think there are 5 critical differences.

1. Time. I usually am force feeding only one cat at a time and don't have to rush off and do other things. I will take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes to get the food into the cat. I only put a small amount in and I let the cat swallow and relax before the next mouthful.

2. Location. I force feed the cat in my lap or between my legs while sitting on the floor. I have the cat surrounded with my legs and arms, with my torso draped over the cat. I believe this makes the cat feel safer. Rarely do I have to 'towel' a cat to force feed it -- even with new arrivals.

3. Tools. I use a feeding syringe from FourPaws. It holds a nice amount and the tip can be cut off so that the food comes out quickly. I have tried regular syringes and I didn't like it. If the syringe is re-used, the plunger sticks. The tip is usually too small unless one uses the 50ml size and then it's too big to easily handle.

4. Food. I always feed the food at or slightly warmer than room temperature. (And apologies, Dr. Muns for this next part.) I know Science Diet A/D is considered a great force feeding food, but many cats do not like it. I may use it, but I mix it with other ingredients, such as goat milk, to make a mix that is more appealing to cats. The food also needs to be of the right consistency -- not runny, not thick, but something like cold gravy.

5. Position of head. I try to keep the head level and squirt small amounts of the food ( like .5ml) in the middle of the upper palate. This works better than what owners are told to do -- squirt it between cheek and teeth. I know vets and vet techs are afraid owners will choke the cat with the food, but if it's the proper consistency (not a liquid) and if it's small amounts, I've never had any problem.

10 Books Cat Breeders Should Own

Here's a list of 10 books that cat breeders should have in their libraries.  The books range from genetics to care of kitten.  I wish to thank several of my breeder friends for make suggestions and comments on these books.

1. The Cat Breeder's Handbook  -- This is a collection of articles by various experts on everything from selecting cats for a breeding program to showing cats at a cat show.  There is a good article on cattery design.
2. Feline Husbandry -- One of the classics for cat breeders, which is still useful.  It covers diseases in a multicat environment, caring for kittens and mothers, and nutrition among other topics.  The book is fairly expensive as it is out of print, but it is available for free online through the UC Davis website.
3. Practical Guide to Cat Breeding (Royal Canin) -- I have not personally seen this book but it was highly recommended.  From the description, it sounds good as it has sections on genetics, reproduction problems, pediatrics, and even legal matters.  The down side of this book is the price -- it is out of print and routinely sells for over $100.
4. Robinson's Genetics for Cat Breeders and Veterinarians -- This is THE book on cat genetics and how breeders need to consider relatedness among cats.
5. Notes on Feline Internal Medicine -- This is a technical veterinary book, but one of the best books for clearly diagnosing internal problems, explaining bloodwork, and giving medication suggestions.
6. Veterinary Notes for Cat Owners, Cat Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, or Cornell Book of Cats -- PICK 2 -- These are more user-friendly books that the above book.  They provide the reader with more background information on disease processes without the technical terminology and the medication suggestions.  Each book explains topics in slightly different ways, hence the suggestion for 2 books.
7. Infectious Disease Management in Animal Shelters -- This book is invaluable to understand and help prevent diseases from spreading in a closed environment, such as a cattery.  While it is for animal shelters, and thus includes dogs, it is very applicable to catteries.
8. Plumb's Veterinary Drug Handbook -- This standard reference on veterinary drugs is invaluable for understanding the biochemisty of drugs as well as for dosages.  Sadly, the book is expensive and some newer drugs are omitted until the newest edition is published.
9. The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog and Cat -- This is a more user-friendly drug book which covers the most commonly prescribed drugs, discusses the pros and cons of using human medications, and provides a simple first-aid guide.
10. Raising Cats Naturally: How to care for your cat the way nature intended -- For breeders interested in feeding raw food, this is THE book to have.  Not only does it provide clear recipes, it provides the rational behind the ingredients with references to literature.

10 Cat Books the Average Owner Should Own

Here is a list I compiled awhile ago of 10 books that are both readable for the average cat owner and very useful.  (Links are to the book page on LibraryThing.com)

1. Veterinary Notes for Cat Owners or Cat Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook -- These books are well written so the layperson can understand a variety of diseases and conditions in cats.  The photos are particularly helpful at times.
2. Raising Cats Naturally: How to care for your cat the way nature intended -- This is the 'bible' for feeding raw.  Not only does it give 2 options for preparing the food (with and without a grinder), but it explains the rational behind the diet's ingredients with references.
3. The new natural cat : a complete guide for finicky owners -- Excellent book on general cat care, using a variety of alternative treatments.
4. Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats -- This was the book that started my interest in both alternative veterinary medicine for cats and in raw food.  While his recipes rely too much on grain in my opinion, his sections on vaccines and then the catalog of diseases and treatments are very good.
5. Cat Wrangling Made Easy: Maintaining Peace and Sanity in Your Multicat Home -- Excellent book by someone who has lived in a multicat home on how to manage things.  Some of the tips and suggestions are brilliant!
6. Cat Vs. Cat: Keeping Peace When You Have More Than One Cat -- Another book on cat behavior and interaction by a top behaviorist.  Her method of introducing new cats has become the standard method and actually does work!
7. Getting in TTouch with your Cat -- This book explains a wonderful massage-type treatment for cats.  It is simple to learn and helps many cats to relax.
8. Cats Naturally: Natural Rearing For Healthier Domestic Cats -- While this is an older book, it is well worth buying it as it is the best guide out there for using herbs with cats.
9. The Nature of Animal Healing : The Definitive Holistic Medicine Guide to Caring for Your Dog and Cat -- A newer and very useful book on holistic medicine for dogs and cats.  Some of the suggestions, such as the Chinese medicine ones, are rarely seen in even other holistic vet books.
10. Starting from scratch : how to correct behavior problems in your adult cat -- Another behavior book, but this one is specifically on how to correct already established bad behaviors.  I like this one since using drugs is the absolute last resort.