Cats: Cleaning Persian Cats' Eyes

 How to Clean the Eyes

So your cat has eye goop and you want to get rid of it?  How?  

To clean the eyes:

Step 1:  Use your fingernail to carefully flick off any dried chunks of crud.  Flick away from the eye so on the lower lid, go down, upper lid go up, and in the crease by the nose, towards the nose.  You can also use a flea comb to do this. Now, if you have a show persian, don't do this because it will pull some hairs out... I know sadly...

Step 2:  Use a make-up pad or soft cloth, moistened with "something", and gently wipe the eyes, inner to outer.  You may have to repeat this several times to loosen dried crud.  

Now, I use those little round cotton make-up pads because they don't shed lint like a cottonball.  (No sense in cleaning the eyes and putting more stuff into the eyes.)  One (or half of one -- yes I cut them in half) per eye so you don't spread germs from one eye to the other.  A soft cloth does work except it needs to be thoroughly rinsed between usages.

The moistening stuff...  Well there are lots of options:

-- water -- if works just fine for general, low crud cleaning

-- salt water -- 1 tsp of salt in 1 cup of water, similar to natural tears, and is claimed to kill the yeast

-- saline solution -- preservative free, very convenient, in the contact lens section or order some online

-- Eye Envy solution -- the original version which must be refrigerated works better than the new, non-refridgerated version, it probably has an enzyme in it to remove stains and something to kill the yeast

-- boric acid solutioin --  you can buy it premade or make it yourself, my version is 1 cup boiling water, 1tsp boric acid, and 10 drops goldenseal, but the recipe does vary (Note:  some cats have an issue with boric acid)

-- colloidal silver -- some people use this, I have not tried it for eye stains

and my favorite...

-- Bausch & Lomb ReNu contact solution -- basically a saline solution with a bit of boric acid, 1 bottle lasts many months even with show cats

Step 3:  Dry the eyes and, if you screwed up and got stains, pack them.  Packing eyes means to take powder and gently push it into the hairs using either a q-tip or a make-up brush where there is potential for staining.  The idea is two fold -- one is the powder will absorb the tears and two is the powder often has something in it to kill yeast.  I do this at night only.

So, things you can use:

-- cornstarch -- it works well

-- Eye Envy powder -- works better than cornstarch, but costs more

and my favorite...

-- Breeder-Care -- I really like it, but it ships from Indonesia so the shipping is high (and folks, it is SAFE... many show people use it, it's by a show person)

One thing I would not recommend is using bleach or a bleaching agent.  If you google it, there are recipes for a bleach paste that some show people use.  Don't!  It can hurt the eye is you get it in one.  Also, while it does work  on removing the stain, it also does something to the hair which will cause more staining -- so it's a vicious circle.

Having said all this and having a plethora of eye staining products, prevention is best.  When I got Charlie, my newest show cat, I learned a huge lesson -- if you clean the eyes 3 times a day, you rarely need anything other than ReNu solution and make-up pads.  Tom Lukken, her breeder, told me that he didn't use powder at all or any of the other trips show people use, and her eyes were pristine when I picked her up.  And he was right -- constant, gentle cleaning, prevents much of the problems.  So, her eyes are wiped 3 times a day and there is no staining!  (And thanks to him and Charlie, Peaches' eyes are cleaner too!)  I use only the ReNu and make-up pads...  The photo is of her at a recent show WITHOUT any powder at all.  (Getting a white cat, or one with all white around the eyes, has sure made me more disciplined on the grooming!)

Are there other things that can be done to prevent eye staining and excess tearing?  Yes, and I plan to discuss each of these individually:

-- trimming the eyes  (tomorrow)

-- lysine

Cats: K.I.S.S.

 K.I.S.S. -- Keep It Simple Stupid

This principle suggests trying the simple solutions first and then moving to more complex solutions.  For example, if a persian in Spring throws up.  Most likely, it's a hairball, so try a hairball remedy.

Until you try that and it fails, there is no reason to suggest major things like pancreatitis, IBS, strictures, or cancer.

Cats: Basic Cat Medical Supplies

 Here is a list of the basic medical supplies I keep on hand.  While this is not for everyone (see below), this is the bare minimum any breeder or "high volume" rescue person should have on hand IMHO.

For infections:

Amoxicillin 

Clavamox 

Baytril

Famciclovir 

Colloidal silver 

Goldenseal 

For eyes:

NeoPolyBac 

NeoPolyDex

Ofloxin

Gentimicin

Optixcare 

GenTeal 

For digestive issues:

Slippery elm bark 

Cerenia

Enema kit (cat with megacolon)

In general:

Thermometer 

Lactate ringers

Subq fluid sets

Syringes 

Needles

Cones 

I also have a close working relationship with my vet.  She will prescribe drugs because I have said I need them - she trusts my judgement as to what it is and if I can deal with it.

I've posted a list like this before and have gotten negative comments, because of some of the items.  But here's the truth - if you are going to be either in rescue or a breeder, then you have to know how to do basic medical things and have the supplies.  If you are nervous about treating your cats, then go to a vet.

Cats: HCM

 THE major heart problem for cats is HCM, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy.  For some purebreds, namely Maine coons and American shorthairs, there is a clear genetic component.  With Maine coons, they ate looking for a second gene even.  But it is a disease that can strike any cat from my posh persians to my moggies.  And 50% of the time there are no symptoms. 

For a thorough article on it, please read:

http://www.manhattancats.com/Articles/Hypertrophic_Cardiomyopathy.html

Cats: Euthanasia

Here is a useful chart for when it's time to think about euthanasia.

Cats: Antihistamines

 A handy table of antihistamines for cats.  Some are OTC and others are by prescription.

Cats: Syringe Feeding

 

Syringe Feeding a Cat

Having just gone through several weeks of syringe feeding Gabby, I thought I would share some thoughts and advice on syringe feeding a cat.  This usually arises when a cat stops eating usually because of illness and you have to get food into the cat.  Many people, including vet techs, hate doing it, but I find it a time to bond with the cat.  And actually, many of the cats, like Isabel, who were syringe fed for weeks to months, often come and want to be hand-fed when stressed.  (I actually had to fight her off when I was syringe-feeding Gabby as Isabel wanted the syringe and my lap so badly!)

So here are some suggestions.

1. Time. Slow is better.  I will take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes to get the food into the cat. I only put a small amount in (maybe 1-2 ml) and I let the cat swallow and relax before the next mouthful.  Because this takes time and because often the cat can't handle larger amounts, I break up the day's food into 3 or 4 meals.

2. Location. I syringe feed the cat in my lap or between my legs while sitting on the floor. I have the cat surrounded with my legs and arms, with my torso draped over the cat. I believe this makes the cat feel safer. Rarely do I have to 'towel' a cat to force feed it -- even with new arrivals.

3. Tools. I use a feeding syringe from FourPaws. It holds a nice amount and the tips can be cut off so that the food comes out quickly. I have tried regular syringes and I didn't like it. If the syringe is re-used, the plunger sticks due to the rubber o-ring. The tip is usually too small unless one uses the 50 ml size and then it's too big to easily handle.  I usually preload 2 syringes, and then have the bowl with a spoon to refill them if needed.

Also have have moist paper towels, to clean up drips and splatters.  Many cats do appreciate you cleaning off around their mouths.

4. Food. I know Science Diet A/D is considered a great force feeding food, but (a) I don't keep it on hand and (b) some of my cats hate it, so I just use my normal raw mixture thinned with water or other liquid. The food needs to be of the right consistency -- not runny, not thick, but something like cold gravy.

Now in the vet world, there is this 'argument' that you should not syringe feed the same food that you normally feed because the cat will develop food aversions.  Bullshit!  I have seen vet techs force-feed a cat with a syringe and watching them squirt 10 ml of canned food into the cat who started to choke on it... I have no doubts as to why that cat would be averse to that food, and it has nothing really to do with the food but how it was delivered.  I have syringe fed many rescue cats and many of my own because of illness, and not one has become averse to my raw.

As for amounts, that is tricky.  To keep a cat from going into hepatic lipidosis, they need a minimum of 3 tablespoons of food... not a lot to prevent it.  With the raw, I shoot for a minimum of 60 -100 ml of food depending on the cat size.  Often for the first 1-2 days, I only give 45 ml so not to overload the digestive tract if the cat has not been eating.  (I know a vet once advised me to give 1.5 3.5 oz cans of A/D to a 3 lb cat...I looked at the vet and laughed -- an 8 lb adult would not be fed that much, let alone a very sick 3 lb cat.)

I usually add a bunch of things to the raw I syringe feed.  The big things are probiotics (specifically PB8) and digestive enzymes -- both will help the digestive tract function better.  Then depending on why the cat is being syringe fed, I may add milk thistle (liver issues), echinacea (infections), ginseng (general tonic), gingko (kidneys), etc...

5. Position of head. I try to keep the head level and squirt small amounts of the food ( like 1 ml) in the middle of the upper palate. This works better than what owners are told to do -- squirt it between cheek and teeth. I know vets and vet techs are afraid owners will choke the cat with the food, but if it's the proper consistency (not a liquid) and if it's small amounts, I've never had any problem.

One last thing, the alternative to syringe-feeding is having a tube placed and then feed via the tube.  I've done that, and found it much harder to deal with -- tube kept getting clogged, easy to overfeed, annoying to cat, etc.  Also, from an alternative medicine point of view, it is much better that food goes in the mouth so that the digestive system is properly triggered, than to suddenly bombard the cat's digestive tract with food in the middle of the digestive process.

Cats: Vaccinations and Titers

A well written article on titers and vaccines by some of the top experts in the field.

AVMA: titer or revaccinate

Titer testing, through the Kansas State University, costs around $50. In most states, a titer test is NOT accepted in lieu of rabies vaccination. 

Cats: Birthing Emergencies

Summarized from "Emergency Interception During Parturition in the Dog and Cat," Frances O. Smith, Vet Clin Small Anim 42(2012): 489-499

There are 3 stages of birthing:
Stage 1: uterine contractions and cervical dilation -- usually 6-12 hrs, but maybe up to 36 hrs.  Queen is restless, may pant, refuses food, nests
Stage 2: fetal expulsion -- usually 4 to 16 hrs, with occasionally upto 42 hrs.
Stage 3: placental expulsion -- usually each placenta is passed within 15 minutes of the fetus

Dystocia (difficult birth) occurs 3.3% to 5.8% in feline births.  Clinical signs include:
-- pregnant queen >71 days after breeding
-- straining for 1 hr continuously before delivering
-- green or black vaginal discharge before delivery
-- resting over 3 hrs between births
-- delivery of stillborn
-- protrusion of fetal membranes for over 15 minutes without delivery of fetus
-- vaginal hemorrhage
-- weak or distressed queen

Causes of dystocia can be divided between problems with the queen and problems with the fetuses.  67.1% are of maternal origin and 29.7% are of fetal origin.  [and no the numbers don't add up, but I didn't write the article!]

Fetal causes:
-- malpresentation (the most common fetal problem) -- 70% of kittens are born head first, and while butt-first is not abnormal in cats, it does increase the risk of death.
-- fetal abnormalities
-- fetal death
-- fetal oversize
-- anasarcous fetuses (fluid filled fetuses)

Maternal causes:
-- uterine inertia (the most common maternal problem) -- Primary inertia, the queen has little to no contractions and does not reach Stage 2.  Partial primary, the queen reaches Stage 2 but the contractions are too weak to expel a fetus.  Secondary inertia arises from anatomic problems.  The uterus may become exhausted in the case of obstructed birth canal.
-- pelvic fracture
-- uterine torsion -- Abdomen is very painful with a racing heart beat.
-- vaginal abnormalities such as bands
-- malnutrition
-- parasites

Medical management
If the queen has not been in labor too long, the cervix is dilated, fetal size is appropriate, and the fetal heart rate is normal, then the use of drugs may help.  Drugs should NOT be used in cases of obstruction or when more than 1 fetus remains in utero due to uterine fatigue. 
-- oxytocin increases the frequency and quality of contractions.  Doses range from 2 to 4 U IM, with a recommended dose of 0.5 to 2 U.  The author spcifies an initial dose of 0.1 U/kg, with a repeat dose after 30 minutes, and no further use after that.  (Oxytocin will cause placental separation and lead to fetal distress.)
-- calcium increases the contractions but "in the queen, calcium use is controversial, due to the very strong uterine contractions seen when it is administered".  [I'm planning on looking into this frther.]

Mechanical management
In the case of malpositioning, it is possible to use sterile lubricant and fingers to rotate and extract the fetus.  Otherwise an episiotomy is possible, but with the complication of scarring and increased risks for future pregnancies.

Surgical management
60-80% of all dystocias result in surgery.  Fetal heartrates below 150 beats/min require immediate surgery, and 150-170 should be monitored closely as surgery is prepared for.  The author does not recommend an ovariohysterectomy at the time of a ceasarean, unless the uterus is damaged, due to risk of hemorrhage and loss of fluids. [skipped all the discussion of anesthetics and surgery as this is not a DIY project, hopefully]

The accompanying flowchart shows neonatal resuscitation.  While it is for neonates after a ceasarean, much of it does apply to normally born kittens too.

Cats: Feline Gestation

Summarized from "Current Advances in Gestation and Parturition in Cats and Dogs", Catherine G. Lamm, Chelsea L. Makloski, Vet. Clinics Sm Animal 42(2012) 445-456

In cats, the normal gestation range is given as 52-74 days, depending on the breed.  As cats are induced ovulators, the luteinizing hormone only surges 24-40 hrs after copulation.  If the copulation is not observed, it is difficult to determine when ovulation occurs.

After 5 days (post breeding) the fertilized ovum enters the uterus with the outer layer (zona pelucida) being shed 10-12 days after breeding.  Implantation occurs at 12-13 days.  Heart beats can be detected at 16 to 25 days.

Pregnancy diagnosis can be made by palpation for the gestational sacs 21-25 days post breeding.  After 35 days, however, the sacs flatten and palpation becomes more difficult.

Ultrasound is the most sensitive and reliable method of pregnancy detection.  With skilled technicians, fetal structures can be detected 11-17 days post breeding.  It is less reliable to determine the number of fetuses.  Heart rates can be monitored from day 25 onwards, and should be greater than 193 beats/min.  Fetal movement can be observed at 28 days.  After 40 days, the gestational age can be estimated using the foloowing two formulas:

Age = (25 x head diameter cms) + 3
Age = (11 x body diameter cms) +21

Mineralization occurs at 38-40 days.  Xrays can then be used to determine the number of fetuses.  Once mineralization begins, age of the fetuses can be estimated as seen in the table.

Use of hormones to determine pregnancy is dependent on the hormone.  Progesterone is not reliable.  Relaxin is specific to pregnancy as early as about 25 days.  Prolactin is not reliable as it will spike in pseudopregnant animals.

Unlike in dogs, queens need a slow increase in calories beginning at 14 days.

Queens may have normocytic, normochromic anemia as well as mild neutrophilia.  Other changes in bloodwork include decrease in proteins, increase in lactate dehydrogenase, increase in cholesterol, and decrease in creatinine. 

For high risk pregnancies, monitoring of progesterone levels should be used.  If a decrease in progesterone level is seen, females can enter pre-term labor, which may be stopped with exogenous progesterone or terbutaline.

Termination of pregnancies can be done either by spaying or, if fertility needs to be maintained, by using a variety of compounds such as estradiol cypionate.

Cats: Hyperlipidemia

General background on hyperlipidemia -- note there are two different kinds, high glycerides and high cholesterols.  It can be caused by increased production (doubtful), increased mobilization (again doubtful in a kitten), and decreased clearance (which makes the most sense here).  To separate physiological from pathological, test after 12hr fast.  HypOthyrdoism keeps being mentioned as a potential cause.

Treatments for hyperglyceridemia:  a low fat diet, <25% fat (raw chicken), omega 3, chitosan...

Treatments for hypercholesterolemia:  soluble fiber,

http://veterinarymedicine.dvm360.com/hyperlipidemia-dogs-and-cats

Homemade Kitten Formula

Orphan kittens ideally should be placed with a nursing queen to get cat milk.  This is not often possible, so caregivers must find a substitute. 

The simplest is fresh, raw goat milk, or even a commercial version.

If this is not available, then either commercial kitten milk (such as KMR) or a homemade version needs to be used.

Under no circumstances should only cow's milk be fed - it lacks important nutrients for kitten growth and there are reports of severe diarrhea when fed exclusively.

The Recipe:

Ingredients for 1-¼ cups kitten formula:

1 cup of goat milk (if unavailable, whole milk can be used but is not preferred)
1 large egg
2 teaspoons of powdered protein
1 teaspoon of nutritional yeast
110 mg of powdered calcium
1-day dose of vitamins formulated for adult cats

You'll also need a mixing bowl, a hand mixer, a saucepan, and a small nursing bottle.

Beat the egg, and thoroughly stir in the remaining ingredients. Warm the formula in a small nursing bottle by placing it into a cup or bowl of hot water. Test the formula on the underside of your wrist to check the temperature. If the formula is too hot, wait until the formula cools down. If the formula is too cold, continue soaking the bottle in hot water. Always be sure to test the formula again before giving it to the kitten.

Never re-use formula that you have warmed. Discard it and use fresh formula for each feed.

Discussion:

There is concern among some kitten fosterers about the use of any cow's milk with kittens.  There concern centers on the lactose content of the cow's milk.  Here are the lactose levels in various milks:

cat milk  4% (constant from birth to weaning)
cow milk  4.5-4.9%  (various authors report different figures)

goat milk  4.1% (or 10% less than cow milk, so 4.1-4.4%)

Feline nutritional experts also agree -- young kittens can digest lactose (obvious from it being in mother's milk), but as they mature to adults, some cats lose this ability and become lactose intolerant.

Lastly, almost all commercial kitten formulas, except where clearly labelled as derived from goat milk, are all make using cow milk in various forms -- casein, powdered milk, whey, etc.

Thoughts on Syringe-Feeding a Cat

Since I seem to have better than average experience with this, a vet invited me to share some tips and tricks with her and others. I have been thinking about and actually spent part of day observing at a local vet clinic to really see what the differences were. I think there are 5 critical differences.

1. Time. I usually am force feeding only one cat at a time and don't have to rush off and do other things. I will take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes to get the food into the cat. I only put a small amount in and I let the cat swallow and relax before the next mouthful.

2. Location. I force feed the cat in my lap or between my legs while sitting on the floor. I have the cat surrounded with my legs and arms, with my torso draped over the cat. I believe this makes the cat feel safer. Rarely do I have to 'towel' a cat to force feed it -- even with new arrivals.

3. Tools. I use a feeding syringe from FourPaws. It holds a nice amount and the tip can be cut off so that the food comes out quickly. I have tried regular syringes and I didn't like it. If the syringe is re-used, the plunger sticks. The tip is usually too small unless one uses the 50ml size and then it's too big to easily handle.

4. Food. I always feed the food at or slightly warmer than room temperature. (And apologies, Dr. Muns for this next part.) I know Science Diet A/D is considered a great force feeding food, but many cats do not like it. I may use it, but I mix it with other ingredients, such as goat milk, to make a mix that is more appealing to cats. The food also needs to be of the right consistency -- not runny, not thick, but something like cold gravy.

5. Position of head. I try to keep the head level and squirt small amounts of the food ( like .5ml) in the middle of the upper palate. This works better than what owners are told to do -- squirt it between cheek and teeth. I know vets and vet techs are afraid owners will choke the cat with the food, but if it's the proper consistency (not a liquid) and if it's small amounts, I've never had any problem.

10 Books Cat Breeders Should Own

Here's a list of 10 books that cat breeders should have in their libraries.  The books range from genetics to care of kitten.  I wish to thank several of my breeder friends for make suggestions and comments on these books.

1. The Cat Breeder's Handbook  -- This is a collection of articles by various experts on everything from selecting cats for a breeding program to showing cats at a cat show.  There is a good article on cattery design.
2. Feline Husbandry -- One of the classics for cat breeders, which is still useful.  It covers diseases in a multicat environment, caring for kittens and mothers, and nutrition among other topics.  The book is fairly expensive as it is out of print, but it is available for free online through the UC Davis website.
3. Practical Guide to Cat Breeding (Royal Canin) -- I have not personally seen this book but it was highly recommended.  From the description, it sounds good as it has sections on genetics, reproduction problems, pediatrics, and even legal matters.  The down side of this book is the price -- it is out of print and routinely sells for over $100.
4. Robinson's Genetics for Cat Breeders and Veterinarians -- This is THE book on cat genetics and how breeders need to consider relatedness among cats.
5. Notes on Feline Internal Medicine -- This is a technical veterinary book, but one of the best books for clearly diagnosing internal problems, explaining bloodwork, and giving medication suggestions.
6. Veterinary Notes for Cat Owners, Cat Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, or Cornell Book of Cats -- PICK 2 -- These are more user-friendly books that the above book.  They provide the reader with more background information on disease processes without the technical terminology and the medication suggestions.  Each book explains topics in slightly different ways, hence the suggestion for 2 books.
7. Infectious Disease Management in Animal Shelters -- This book is invaluable to understand and help prevent diseases from spreading in a closed environment, such as a cattery.  While it is for animal shelters, and thus includes dogs, it is very applicable to catteries.
8. Plumb's Veterinary Drug Handbook -- This standard reference on veterinary drugs is invaluable for understanding the biochemisty of drugs as well as for dosages.  Sadly, the book is expensive and some newer drugs are omitted until the newest edition is published.
9. The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog and Cat -- This is a more user-friendly drug book which covers the most commonly prescribed drugs, discusses the pros and cons of using human medications, and provides a simple first-aid guide.
10. Raising Cats Naturally: How to care for your cat the way nature intended -- For breeders interested in feeding raw food, this is THE book to have.  Not only does it provide clear recipes, it provides the rational behind the ingredients with references to literature.

Treating Feline Urinary Problems: Cranberries

Cranberries

If you go to any alternative medicine site and look for natural treatments for bladder infections, cranberry in its many forms is touted as a cure or prevention.  But does it work?  And more importantly for me, does it work for a cat?

Cranberry seems to work because a proanthocyanidins (an antioxidant) prevents the E. Coli from attaching to the cell walls in the bladder.  In vitro studies have confirmed that proanthocyanins do cause deformation of the E. coli cells and thus suggests prevents them from adhering to the bladder walls.  The adhesion in one study was reduced by 75%

There are no studies in cats.

There is a study in beagles showing that the metabolites of the cranberry do appear to make it to the bladder and do reduce the adhesion of the E. coli.  The researchers administered 1 Crananidin tablet per day and the dose peaked at 7 days after which it remained steady.

There are human studies that show no significant improvement with the use of cranberries.  Several of the studies do comment that perhaps the potency of the cranberry used in the study was not sufficient.

So what does this all mean?  It does seem that cranberry can prevent UTIs in cell cultures, but there is no evidence that it does in cats.

There are however many anecdotal accounts by cat owners that cranberry pills, cranberry powder, and even cranberry juice has helped cats.  I know from personal expereience, I have used cranberry powder with cats exhibiting UTI symptoms and the symptoms disappeared in 2-3 days.  Was it coincidence?  Maybe, maybe not.  I do know that 1/2 a cranberry extract pill is a much larger dose for a cat than 1 pill 2x a day is for a person.  So maybe, the proanthocyanins did reach a therapeutic level in my cats.

There are also a couple of concerns about using cranberries with cats.  One is cranberries contain salicylic acid (aspirin).  Now, before people panic, cranberry juice contains 7mg/L of juice.  Presumably poders and extracts would contain more.  But.... for cats, the toxic level for aspirin begins at about 50mg/kg of body weight.  So an 11 lb cat (5 kgs) would need 250mg to reach a minimum toxic level, of about 37 quarts (35L) of juice.

The other concern is the presence of oxalates.  Oxalates have been tied to the formation of oxalate kidney stones in humans, but cats rarely develop kidney stones -- they are more likely to have bladder stones, so I am unclear if this is even a concern.  In any case, cranberries contain 5-7 mg of oxalates per 3.5oz of food.  This is the same level for pumpkin, which is wildly used for cats and regarded as beneficial.

Bottomline, if I have another cat with UTI symptoms, I will use it again.  If and when the researchers ever do a sound study on felines and show it does not work, then I may rethink my position.

Summary of scientific studies from "Complementary and Integrative Therapies" by Donna Raditic, in Vet. Clinics of N. Am.: Small Animal Practice,  July 2015

A Simple Recipe for Bone Broth

I've seen a number of cat people encourage owners with sick cats to make bone broth.  This broth supposedly will be loved by cats and will provide them with lots of vital nutrients.

I do remember trying it years ago.  All I really remember of it was that the cats didn't particularly like it and I eventually through the frozen stuff away.  But maybe it was the cats, or the problems, or my preparation... I'm willing to give it another try.

Here's a recipe I found on a website called Pet360.com :

Place bones in pot and cover with water. For each gallon of water, add two teaspoons of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice, for the natural acids that break down bones to release their minerals. Slice in some carrots for flavor; before adding any other vegetables or seasonings. Make sure to consult your vet to be sure all ingredients are feline-safe. Cats should never eat anything containing onions, chives, scallions or garlic—these are all toxic for cats.

Simmer on low heat until any remaining meat residue falls off the bones. Remove  meat and vegetables. Let the bones simmer for another 20-24 hours. Your cat will hover, curious about the yummy scent.

When cooking time is up, skim off the separated fat, remove and discard all bones. Let broth cool completely and transfer to small containers and ice cube trays for easy freezing.

Get bone broth on your cat’s menu by serving it over dry cat food, letting the nuggets soak up the flavor and nutrients. You can also spoon it over canned food like gravy. Or offer a broth cube as a savory ‘popsicle’ that your cat will eagerly lick. That’s another of bone broth’s many health benefits—your cat will definitely enjoy the treat.

From http://www.pet360.com/cat/health/6-ways-bone-broth-serves-up-benefits-for-cats/S46iGtRWEE-Qr4Pg08dcuw

Feline Idiopathic Cystitis (FIC)

One of the main reasons cats are taken to the vet is urinary tract issues, namely, the cat is using the litterbox frequently with little urine produced, or the cat is peeing outside of the box somethimes with blood.  These are the warning signs that the might have a bladder infection, bladder stones, bladder cancer, etc., or it may be suffering from feline idiopathic cystitis (FIC).

A note on acronyms:  In the early 1980s, this was usually termed FUS -- feline urological syndrome.  Thanks to an article in a 1984 journal, it became FLUTD -- feline lower urinary tract disease.  It has also been refered to as LUTS -- lower urinary tract signs and IC -- interstitial cystitis, which was borrowed from human medicine.  I will refer to it as the new preferred term -- FIC.

FIC strikes males and females equally, although males are by far more likely to become obstructed than females.  Risk factors seem to include stress, excess body weight, lack of activity, and multicat homes.

With humans, there are two types -- ulcerative and non-ulcerative.  With cats, almost all are non-ulcerative, and so, biopsies of the bladder are not recommended for cats suspected of having FIC.

The actual cause of FIC is unknown.  There seems to be no clear link between any virus and FIC.  There seems to be some connection with bacteria, namely cats with FIC are at increased risk of bacterial UTI.  The neurons assocaited with the bladder are larger and more sensitve in FIC cats than in normal cats.  Abnormalities in the hpothalamus, pituitary, and adrenal axis have been observed in cats with FIC.  Many cats with FIC also suffer from various other diseases leading researchers to wonder if FIC is a single disease or an expression of a larger disease process which effects other organs also.  One important "cause" is early kittenhood adversity, such as being orphaned or starved.

Diagnosing FIC is by exclusion of other diseases.  (The accompanying diagram shows most of the other possibilities.)  There is no clear diagnostic test, although researchers have found some biomarkers which seem to be linked to FIC.  Abdominal xrays are suggested since 20% with some type of urinary tract issue have crystals.

Treatment involves both drugs and environmental changes.  Narcotic pain-killers are recommended during a FIC period, whereas NSAIDs are not because of decreased blood flow to the kidneys.

The main treatment is modification of the cat's evironment to decrease stress.  An interesting question to help identify stress triggers is at http://indoorpet.osu.edu .  Increased water intake is seen as important, but using acidifying foods is not.  If the cat is fat, a safe diet needs to be undertaken.  Feliway may or may not be useful with FIC cats, but it was discussed and there is research on using it with these cats.  No drug, such as antidepressives, have been found useful.

Summarized from "Feline Idiopathic Cystitis", Jodi L. Westropp and C. A. Tony Buffington, pp.518-525 in Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine, v.7, 2015.

Urinary Tract Infection in Cats

When a cat repeatedly visits the litter box, like 5 times in 10 minutes, or begins to pee outside the litter box, with even a drop or two of blood, one likely cause is a urinary tract infection.

There are several related medical problems that are related and must be clearly distinguished if treatment is to be successful.  They are:  bladder stones, urethral plugs in males, idiopathic cystitis, plus some other causes.  The key to determining IF it is a UTI is a urinalysis.  The urine specific gravity will help determine if the help distinguish upper urinary tract infection, associated diseases (e.g. CRF), or lower urinary tract infection.  A urine culture will determine the bacteria involved.  In more complicated cases, bloodwork, xrays, thyroid tests, and even an ultrasound may be needed.

The likey cause of most UTI's is bacteria spreading from the external opening up into the bladder and then even on to the kidenys.  Few infections seem to begin from blood into the kidneys, except in cases of trauma or urinary tract obstruction.  33-50% of all bacteria is E. coli.  25-33% are one of the many strains of Staph or Enterococci.  The remaining are a mix of 8+ bacteria.  In about 75% of the cases, only one bacteria is responsible for the infection, with 20% of the cases having 2 different species involved.  There is also the slim chance that a fungal infection can be the cause.

The standard treatment is antibiotics.  The first-line options are amoxicillin are trimethoprim-sulfadiazine.  Second-line option is nitrofurantoin.  Other antibiotics can be used, but many seem to be resistent to Enterococci.  Interestingly, the article says about clavamox "not established where there is any advantage over amoxicillin alone", which is intersting because clavamox is often seen as the go-to antibiotic.  Also of interest is the comment on cefovecin (Convenia) "Should only be used in situations where oral treatment is problematic" and it goes on to explain that the long duration interfers then with any post-treatment cultures for over 21 days.

In simple cases, treatment with antibiotics is for 10-14 days, with symptoms lessening in 48 hrs.  Sadly, simple UTI's are rare.  More complicated cases involving CKD or diabetes should be treated for 4-6 weeks.  Reinfection and relapse can occur.

The article also mentions alternative treatments, including cranberry extracts, D-mannose, methenamine hippurate, and probiotics.  Sadly there are no feline studies on any of these products.  Do note that methenamine is "poorly tolerated by feline patients".

Summarized from "Urinary Tract Infections", Shelly Olin and Joseph W. Bartges, pp 509-517, in Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine, v.7, 2015.

Feline Uroliths

80% of all bladder stones (uroliths) in cats are either struvite or calcium oxalate. The remaining 20% are formed from a variety of minerals, each type occuring very rarely, and so I will focus on the two main types.

Struvite crystals form when the urine is not acid enough. These crystals come in two forms, sterile and infection-induced. The sterile form is just precipitated minerals from the urine. They are common in cats 1-8 yrs old, in both male and female. Diets low in magnesium, phosphate, and protein can lead to their dissolving. Prevention includes lowering the urine pH, decreasin urine specific gravity, and decreasing dietary magnesium, ammonium, and phosphates. Increased water consumption also helps prevent formation.

The infection-induced struvite crystals tend to form in very young or older cats. A bacterial infection in the bladder releases urease which then leads to the formation of the crystalline nidus (seed-crystal). The treatment of these crystals is much the same as sterile struvite crystals, except that antibiotics should be used while the dissolution food is being fed. The reason for this is the bacteria trapped in the stone are released as the stone is dissolved and can cause UTI or further stone formation. Antibiotics should continue for 2 weeks past when the stone no longer is visible on xrays or ultrasounds. Prevention of infection-induced struvite crystals does not require any change in diet -- only thorough treatment of any UTI.

Calcium oxalate crystals form when urine is too low in pH. Various medical conditions such as hypercalcemia is associated with an increase risk in calcium oxalate stones. These stones can not be dissolved by diet and must be physically removed. Prevention is treatment of any contributing medical condition and increasing fluid consumption.

In the photo, Photo A shows a typical sterile struvite crystal which is nicely round and smooth. Photo B shows 3 infection-induced struvite crystals -- note that they are smooth but geometrically shaped. Photo C shows a calcium oxalate crystal with typical spikes.

Based on "Update on feline Urolithiasis" by Amanda Callens and Joseph W. Bartges, pp. 499-508, in Consultations on Feline Internal Medicine, v7, 2015

Cats: Exposure to Rabies

One of the most contentious topics in any cat group is the subject of vaccines and whether are not to vaccinate.  Often someone will remark that they have to vaccinate because of the local law.  Some people are unaware that the requirement for rabies vaccination depends on the locality.  Where I live, rabies vaccinations are required by county law for dogs only.  I have friends who live in areas where rabies vaccinations are also required for cats.  The variation in requirements depends in large part on the incidence of rabies in wildlife in an area.

Please keep in mind that the rabies vaccine is NOT for the health of the dog or cat, but to protect humans from the rabies.  This article, Rabies Postexposure Prophylaxis, by M. Gayne Fearneyhough, BS, DVM (p 557-572 in Vol 31, No 3, Vet. Cl. of NA: Small Animal Practice, May 2001) looks at the treatment of humans after they have been bitten by a potential rabid animal.  As I do not particularly care about human medicine, this is a very brief summary.

One statement of interest in this article is "many parts of the western United States are free of terrestrial rabies", which, if you look at the 2010 CDC map for rabies infections in dogs and cats, my area, southern CA, has no cases (despite heavy testing) whereas a state like Pennsylvania is solid yellow in the east.  This explains why my Eastern friends are so adamant about rabies vaccines and here it's a minor concern.

The chart below is the decision tree recommended for humans:

Perhaps the most interesting section had to do with post-exposure treatment in domestic animals.  I have lived under the assumption that if a cat was bitten, that was a death sentence.  Apparently not.  At least 2 studies, one of 713 animals and another of 632 animals (dogs, cats, cattle, horses, sheep, goats, pigs, and 1 llama) were treated.  The first study had a 99.7% survived and 99.5% in the second.  So, yes, a cat bitten by a rabid animal CAN be successfully treated. The main problem mentioned is that the animal may survive but may not be free of rabies. I would think a second problem is to find a place that would quarantine the cat and provide treatment for several weeks.